“This means representing Philadelphia and my community. This is my home and its blood runs through my veins,” chef Cristina Martinez of South Philly Barbacoa said after bringing home the best Mid-Atlantic chef prize at the James Beard Awards. JBFA2022
“Many of the chefs tonight and other nights who have received this, and many other restaurants, have some undocumented workers. I want to recognize the industry that all these immigrants create as the backbone that supports these chefs. ... Thank you to all these immigrants, thank you also to the farmers.”Backstage after receiving her medallion, she said, “This means representing Philadelphia and my community. This is my home and its blood runs through my veins.
Martinez, 52, a native of Capulhuac, Mexico, owns South Philly Barbacoa and Casa Mexico, both on South Ninth Street. She settled in Philadelphia in 2009 and worked as a pastry cook at Amis, then in Center City, where she met and married Ben Miller, now her business partner. She was fired when management learned that she was undocumented.
were from South Philadelphia: Besides Martinez, they were Jesse Ito of Royal Izakaya, a sushi chef whose $175-per-person omakase dinners are sold out constantly, and Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, whose BYOB, Kalaya Thai Kitchen, has picked up accolades since its opening three years ago; it was a 2020 finalist for the Beards’ best new restaurant., and High Street Hospitality, a finalist for restaurateur of the year, lost out to Chris Bianco of Tratto, Pane Bianco and Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix.
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