The British designer’s Spring/Summer 2024 show, held in sweltering heat in a north London community centre, celebrated the sexiness of androgynous dress codes
The weather on Sunday evening felt perfect for Rose’s particular brand of seediness; the unavoidable musk of sweat and fog lingering in the velvet curtain-lined space of St Joseph’s Parish Centre made the show feel like an after hours lock-in at a local pub, the kind where sweat drips from the ceiling following hours of dancing.
This season, Rose’s usual motley crew of streetcast models blurred the lines between gendered dress codes, with men in lacy camisoles, tight 1930s satin girdles that barely graced the nipple, and ultra-long chains of pearls that fell to the crotch. Women wore wet-look crumpled suits in leather, hinting at biker culture, while a utilitarian thread manifested itself throughout the collection via glowing high-vis jackets and trousers.
Community centres are vital, they’re a lifeline to people,” Rose said, referencing the Turkish, West Indian and Polish community centres that exist in London thanks to the influx of immigrants over time. “It actually made my day, earlier Helen said that us doing the show here might help the venue to stop from closing,” she said.
St Joseph’s Parish Centre may be just one of many locally funded community venues facing brutal government cuts, but on Sunday evening, in the name of fashion, it served its purpose perfectly; as a place for people to gather – no matter their class, ethnicity, age or belief system – and exchange ideas.
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