India’s undying love for 'Chinese' food: the ultimate fusion love child.
If you see these dishes—plucked from the vast canon of “Indo-Chinese” food—listed on a menu at an Indian restaurantof India, you’re guaranteed good food. That is to say, it’s a sign that the restaurant is catered for Indians .
Tangy, sweet-sour, spicy, umami-packed and explosively red, Indian Chinese serves as everything from a midweek meal to a comfort-eat or a street-eat. But what’s fascinating about “Indo-Chinese” or “Chindian,” as it’s affectionately called, isn’t that it’s a cuisine. Rather, it’s that it is so far removed from Chinese cuisine that when I first learned an “American chop suey” wasa red vegetable gravy with chicken, deep-fried noodles and a crispy fried egg to garnish, I was admittedly confused.
I’ve had “real” Chinese, having grown up in Singapore and a handful of other places in Asia, but growing up, I’d never thought to distinguish the Chinese foodThe cuisine we call “Chinese” in India is traced back to Chinese immigrants in Calcutta . According to records from the, the first Chinese person to settle in India , Yong Atchew, arrived in Calcutta in 1780 to start a sugar mill. In the decades that followed, business opportunities attracted hundreds more Chinese settlers.
Later, in the 1830s, the British imported manpower from China to work on Assamese tea plantations, while later still—with the Sino-Japanese War and the Chinese Civil War—thousands sought refuge and a better life in India. By the 20th century, people of Chinese origin were well-settled in eastern India, with careers spanning dentistry to leather tanning and shoemaking.
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