Swaddled in white towels, the Mansour and Wafai families sat in an arched alcove...
ALEPPO, Syria - Swaddled in white towels, the Mansour and Wafai families sat in an arched alcove of Aleppo’s Bab al-Ahmar public bathhouse, reviving their once-weekly tradition after years of war in Syria.
Fighting in Aleppo ended in late 2016 although it goes on s elsewhere in Syria and four of the city’s 50 or so bathhouses have now reopened. They are drawing back some old customers - and new ones too young to remember life before the war. They were in the high, domed reception room, sitting in one of several alcoves with stone benches set into each wall above the sunken floor and its octagonal fountain.
In another chamber, a raucous young group were singing bawdy wedding songs, banging time on plastic bowls and splashing each other with water.Evenings at the bathhouse are for men, daytime hours for women. Bathers lather themselves with Aleppo soap made of olives and bay leaf before rinsing from bowls of hot water drawn from large stone basins in the washing chambers.
War-ruined bathhouses are dotted around Aleppo’s Old City, their distinctive domes, punched like colanders with round apertures of colored glass, lying smashed, or looking down on rooms filled with rubble and garbage. “On Thursday evenings before the Friday weekend it was so crowded that you could find no empty space,” he said, looking around at the bare stone benches in some alcoves.
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