The MEN's Ben Arnold sets out with admirable purpose
Kebabs come in many forms. Wrapped in a puffed up naan, a warm pitta, a teardrop shaped samoon studded with black and white sesame seeds, and then stuffed with grilled meat or crisp, fried halloumi cheese. With salad. All the salad, no onion. Chilli sauce. Yoghurt sauce. Hummus. Extra pickled chillies, please. The combinations are endless.
Late night news shifts in the late 90s were frequently punctuated by a kebab at the Rusholme Chippy on the way back to his flat in Moss Side. One of the few places that would still be open at 1am on a weeknight, a seat in the window would provide ample entertainment. The place is an institution. The tray of chips is chip shop-style, lashed with salt and vinegar - it’s a chippy after all. But this is a kebab shop foremost, and this kebab, easily a foot long and retrieved from hanging vertically on lengthy skewers in the fridge at the back, before being plunged into the fiery maw of hell, is going to set the bar perilously high.
When the kebab arrives, another kobeda , its as plain as the surroundings, a thick club of lamb on a freshly baked naan, stretched long like a slipper. It looks nothing in the least bit special.
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