I dodged red candy all my life. Swedish Fish changed that.
, a combination of reds —fruit punch, strawberry, watermelon, and cherry—in one packet, is one of the numerous cogs in Big Food’s deliberate ploy to cash in on the beloved color. Over the years I have come of age. I am super chill all the time! I’ve learned that cereal milk makes for dreamy soft serve and melted Brie is a petit luxury. A smokin’ hot food safety expert I knew in college once extolled the natural antimicrobial properties of ginger, so I started eating that too.
At my kitchen table I scattered the contents of the bag on a plate. There I was, back in Mrs. Rosenthal’s class; only now I knew better than to dive in straightaway. Instead, I began combing through each candy to decipher which to start with, thinking a process of elimination might increase my chances of making it out of this showdown alive. Naturally, red Starburst was a BIG NO. Mini Twizzlers? Waxy-looking trouble.
Chewing nervously, I waited in anticipation of another oral attack. But no such occurrence prevailed. In fact, the experience was tranquil. Like eating a ripe piece of fruit outdoors. The flesh was soft but not disconcertingly so. For something made almost entirely of refined sugar plus Red Dye 40, it proffered a kind of subtle, respectable sweetness. And there was flavor—actual pronounced flavor! Where red Starbursts fell flat, the Fish accentuated berry notes, rounded out with a citrus punch.
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