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which work by pairing something bitter with something bubbly. They’re stupendously popular in Italy once it warms up, and are deployed in great numbers for aperitivo hour, which is the time before dinner where you get free snacks and drink lots of spritzes. Sometimes they’re very bitter and sometimes they’re only a little bitter, but what they always are is refreshing, designed to cool you down while the sun is still up.
The Bicicletta, as you can probably already tell, is Italian. It is made of Campari or a similar bitter liqueur, enlivened with some still white wine and lifted with a splash of soda. According to Talia Baiocchi in her book, it comes from Lombardia in the 1930s, named, they say, for the teetering bicycles of the old men who had too many Biciclettas before heading home from the caffe.
I tested Campari against five of its competitors, expecting it to be singular as it always is, and while Campari was indeed very good, I thought better across all tests was actually Select Aperitivo, from Venice. Not only was it good across styles of wine in a way that Campari wasn’t but even when Campari worked well, Select Aperitivo worked better. Select is prettier than Campari, with rose-like florals, a bit less bitterness and a more rounded edge.
As for still wine: I’ve always defaulted to Pinot Grigio here for its Italian pedigree and its universal availability and it does work pretty well with Select, but with both Campari and Select I found I preferred a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, which added orchard fruit, citrus, and grassy notes that integrated surprisingly well. If you don’t like Sauvignon Blanc you also won’t like it here, but if you do, it’s perfect. Vinho Verde would be great.
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