Over the last two decades, pioneering chefs in cities across the country have ditched the tweezers and turned their obsessiveness to pizza.
in Berkeley, Calif., who both pushed pizza forward in the 1970s and 1980s. Neither man had listicles, Instagram and TikTok influencers to help turn them into stars.Food television, social media and the internet were able to fetishize chefs’ pizza obsessions in a way that spoke to a new generation of cooks who might have never considered a life slinging pies, Mangieri says. “They are drawn to the excitement of the pizza business,” he said.
It would take nearly two years for Friedman and O’Malley to open their first All-Purpose. Time was need for the partners to develop a concept, separate from those who had shown chefs and restaurateurs a path forward in the pizza world. Friedman wanted to open a shop that paid tribute to his upbringing in New Jersey and New York.
“For me, I see this as discovery,” Bianco said about pizza-making. “The minute I tell people about what they need to do, that’s not my place.” “When I met him, he was the first chef that made feel like myself, like I could be myself in this industry,” Tutlewski said. “He didn’t teach you to be an individual, but the guy himself was such an individual.”
Some will tell you — Pastan in particular — that chefs have flocked to pizza in recent years mostly because it’s just easier than working in fine-dining — and probably more profitable. I floated this theory by several other pioneers in the field. They all disagreed.
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