Gucci Ushers in a Quiet and Gentle New Era

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Gucci Ushers in a Quiet and Gentle New Era
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Gucci’s Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear collection was full of possibilities for future direction and regeneration, full of promise, and also full of great clothes, writes Alexander Fury

the first presented after the departure of creative directorin November, executed by a team including many recruited by him, and some who have worked alongside Gucci’s designers for decades.

Gucci’s modern icon the Dionysus got a new workout in faux fur; a piston-lock used by Ford as minimalist hardware was re-appropriated, while the scuffed, lived and loved jeans could have come from either of their tenures. Soft tailoring in macaron colours – lilac, ivory, parma violet – had a timeless quality. And so did delicate knits, a hazy hint of sexiness.

This was a collection full of possibilities for future direction and regeneration, and also full of promise. But more pragmatically than that, it was full of great clothes

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