.GordonRamsay's Wharf dining room offers a bang-up beef Wellington—but not many other rewards.
. But the real reason he’s touched down here is Hell’s Kitchen, just across the way, which opened in January and is named after Ramsay’s 18-year-old Fox competition show. The massive two-story restaurant—whose scale recalls the giant seafood houses of the old, pre-Wharf Southwest waterfront—has siblings in Vegas, Tahoe, Atlantic City, and Southern California casinos.
, even on a tiny piece of paper clipped to my sugary green-tea-and-gin “Notes From Gordon” cocktail. “Why Did The Chicken Cross The Road?,” it read. “Because You Didn’t F***ing Cook It.” –Gordon Ramsay.“Notes From Gordon” cocktail. Photograph courtesy of Gordon Ramsay North America. One of Ramsay’s reality-TV shticks—on a former show, Kitchen Nightmares—is to give ailing restaurants kick-in-the-ass makeovers, hurling insults like “How f***ing depressing is that?” about a pork chop. I found myself asking the same question about the skillet of Wagyu-and-pork meatballs in front of me one evening. Draped in chunky red sauce, they looked the checkered-tablecloth part. Too bad every element—the meatballs, the marinara, the polenta croutons—was positively obliterated with salt.
Other dishes, such as Ramsay’s famous scallops, suffered from the opposite problem. The scallops were seared beautifully but had barely any flavor. It’s tough to find good foie gras these days, I get that, but the slab here was a faint approximation of what the custardy liver should taste like. The overly sweet shortbread and stewed cherries could mask only so much.
You’ll hear the servers tout a Ramsay signature: the beef Wellington. Believe them. It’s the best savory course on the menu. The wet-aged filet mignon, seared to a perfect medium rare and brushed with mustard, is wrapped in layers of duxelles, a chive crepe, and buttery pastry crust. At $65, it arrives split into two and makes an excellent share. The runner-up entrée is a filet of salmon with lentils and citrusy beurre blanc.
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