This is the recipe that put Helen You's Dumpling Galaxy on the map.
I helped write a few years ago. At her flagship restaurant, a satellite food court stall , Helen makes over 100 kinds of dumplings, many of them outfitted with a dumpling skirt. “It’s a way to hold all the dumplings together,” she says, which is handy when turning out thousands of dumplings a day, “and everyone likes the extra crunch.” Here’s how she makes hers.Helen insists that there’s nothing better for frying dumplings than a cast iron skillet.
You’ll also need a glass lid that fits the skillet reasonably tightly. Glass isn’t essential, Helen tells me, but it does help you keep an eye on the dumplings while they cook, and the ones with little steam vents let out just enough moisture to help your crust form. Last, pull out your largest, thinnest, most flexible offset spatula. This will help you dislodge the skirt from the pan when it’s time to flip.
Pan-fried dumplings take six to eight minutes to cook. During that time, Helen slowly reduces the heat, first bringing it down to medium after 2 minutes, then eventually down to low. “You need the high heat at the start to penetrate the dumplings, but it you keep it high, they’ll burn.” If the universe is smiling on you, the tops of the dumplings will cook through at about the same time that all the water in the slurry is cooked off.
The key, Helen reminds me, is patience and flexibility. If your dumplings look well-cooked but there’s still a lot of slurry in the pan, boost the heat and remove the lid to speed up evaporation. If you see signs of burning, add a little more slurry to any hot spots, a tablespoon at a time. Regardless, you need to patiently wait for the dumpling skirt to set and brown before you try removing it.
I’ve never seen Helen make any mistakes with her guo tie, but she has 40 more years of dumpling experience than I do. Here’s what I can tell you from my missteps along the road to potsticker perfection: the mistakes still taste pretty good.
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