Rare spices, seasonal flowers, and hyperlocal products line the shelves of épiceries, rural grocers that have been reborn in major cities
in the U.S. Like épiceries, they sell critical expertise as much as food. But the two stores aren’t born of the same legacy. The American shops largely emerged in or thanks to the digital space, mostly selling direct-to-consumer packaged goods that people can just as easily get online.
Provisions occupies what was once a multilingual bookshop that operated from the 1950s until Cousin and Poretta found the space for rent in 2021. The women preserved as much of the original space as they could, including the floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves and drawers, rolling library ladder, and retro floor tiles. That it looks like a rustic cabinet of curiosities is precisely the point.
“I think there’s definitely a bit of nostalgia for rural life wrapped up in this [resurgence],” says Mathieu Magnaudeix, an author and journalist for Mediapart. “That idea of proximity, of reconnecting with a community as if in a small village even if you live in the big city.” The 2008 global financial crisis hollowed out much of the rural economy and left many main streets deserted. Instead of shoring up small businesses, local leaders invested in one-stop shops and modernist shopping centers on the outskirts of town. Whatever specialty shops that survived in the years following the economic nosedive were miraculous exceptions, and access to quality produce and ingredients remains limited in many areas.
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