Rural Spain has long captured the country’s imagination, portrayed in literature as otherworldly, sublime. But some villages are nothing more than a handful of stone houses along a dirt road. There are no schools, no hospitals, no bars, no children.
They are acupuncturists and writers and caregivers and chefs. They are domestic violence survivors, single mothers, proud grandmothers. Some are divorced. Few are Spanish.
of towns in rural Spain, where the population density is as low as 7 people per square mile. He’d heard about a town in Aragon whose young, single men had few dating options; in 1985, they invited a bus of women to visit for dinner and a party. The caravan was a success; a dozen couples married, and a former town mayor is the child of one of those couples. Gozalo wanted to copy the idea.
In many rural towns, aging male farmers are often the only ones left. Sometimes, days pass before they see a woman.Angel Navarrete / For The TimesAcero wears flared pants and a broad smile, greeting the women as they enter the hotel.music blaring from speakers. Gozalo begins to dance, the tips of his walrus mustache turning up as he grins. His wife, Venecia Alcantara, rushes about, offering greetings and telling stories in a booming voice.
In November, members of Castilla La Mancha’s United Left party wrote an opinion piece for the newspaper El Diario arguing that the caravans treated “women as commodities” and were “a vestige of an old-world past, profoundlyGozalo and Alcantara dismiss these criticisms. The women, they say, come of their own accord and more than 100 couples have married. In fact, Gozalo and Alcantara met at his third caravan.
The women are in command on the dance floor as the men are slower, clumsier and struggling to keep up. Left, the women are in command on the dance floor as the men are slower, clumsier and struggling to keep up in Calzadilla de la Cueza, Spain. Manuel Gozalo, right, dances as others look on. At the dinner table, Blanco proudly shows off a photo of her oldest daughter. The other women also take out their phones and brag about children, coo over grandchildren.
Soon the darkened room smells of sweat and beer and tobacco. A machine emits smoke, shrouding the room in an ethereal fog. When the song changes, the dancers collapse onto chairs, catching their breath. “I was expecting gentlemen,” says Janeh, a woman from Ecuador who declined to give her last name. She came with a Cuban friend and had hoped for conversation with polite men. Instead, she suspects the men on the dance floor have other intentions. Janeh and her friend ask around to see if anyone has a car, if they could catch a ride back to Madrid. Nothing. They have three hours until the bus leaves.
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