Review: Food, service mostly rise to magical setting of Jaja in Ohio City
To get to Jaja, guests first gather in a small ground-floor vestibule with little more than a host stand and bench. After a brief pause, groups enter an elevator wrapped in the sort of lush botanical wallpaper made famous by the opening credits of the White Lotus. In the time it takes to ascend one floor, diners are transported to an environment that is so un-Cleveland it’s temporarily jarring. Outside: brick, steel, bridges, smokestacks and railroad tracks.
Guests are welcomed with a complimentary tulip of cava that the server calls the “Jaja handshake.” If there’s one restaurant at which to not skip the cocktail course, it’s this one. From the stunning six-seat bar at the front of the room come bracing creations like She Only Wears Green and It’s Pronounced “How-Stun” . The former weaves gin, chartreuse, honeydew and mint into an aquamarine dream while the latter fortifies a classic Manhattan with Amaro Montenegro and vanilla bitters.
Higher up on the food chain, the grilled octopus arrived with a glorious char, ideal meaty texture and a stack of crisp-edged potato planks. The pulpo, we agreed, would have benefited from a more aggressive spice component. In the case of the roasted bone marrow , two deep canoes filled with buttery “beef pudding,” it was a minor temperature issue that stood between good and great.
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