“Food is the ultimate history lesson”: Southern Colorado steel town stays connected to its Italian heritage

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“Food is the ultimate history lesson”: Southern Colorado steel town stays connected to its Italian heritage
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Italian-owned restaurants and businesses in Pueblo like Gagliano’s Italian Market and Deli provide cultural link between the past and present

Gagliano — whose last name is properly pronounced “Galiano” — first spoke a Sicilian dialect of Italian before learning English at 5 years old. Living one block away from the store, he spent “every single day” at the family business, which is in the Bessemer neighborhood.

Gagliano still considers southern Colorado a hub for Italian-Americans, with one of his boys learning the language in high school. But time will only tell if they’ll continue the family business.Vince Gagliano works on an order of sausage at his family’s Gagliano’s Italian Market, on Dec. 14, 2022, in Pueblo.

In highlighting Pueblo businesses that serve as cultural cornerstones, “at the top of the list is, of course, Gagliano’s,” Gatto said. The deli and market, along with La Tronica’s restaurant at 1143 E. Abriendo Ave., outwardly represent the Colorado Italian community, and once used cuisine to make the culture “a little less foreign” after the immigrant population resettled in the U.S.

“Folks like the Gagliano family are really doing a great service for the community because they’re the keepers of a lot of these traditions,” Gatto said. “There’s interest — I think, more so, these days — in preserving the history.” The steel mill often served as a pathway to land ownership for immigrants, which explains the Italian-American community’s clear agricultural ties today, DiPrince said. She highlighted the popularity of Pueblo chiles — grown by area farms and used to spice up meatballs, sausage sandwiches, pizzas and other Italian dishes.

“Anytime I’m in Pueblo, I go to Gagliano’s,” DiPrince said, calling it an “extension of the Italian kitchen.”

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