Food critic Jay Rayner raves about new Manchester restaurant in latest review

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Food critic Jay Rayner raves about new Manchester restaurant in latest review
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He said it was 'hard not to fall in adult love' with some of the dishes

Food critic Jay Rayner has penned a glowing review of a newly opened Manc restaurant. Climat, located in a ‘shadowed street’ on Deansgate and eight floors high, was described as ‘the right place’ for those looking for ‘food you want to eat’, by the Guardian reviewer.

“The view recalls the touching illustrations from Maurice Sendak’s In the Night Kitchen, the outcrops of Victorian grandeur sitting shoulder to shoulder with the shinier modern blocks and their golden-lit squares of window, silhouetted against the ink-black sky,” he writes.He added that it was ‘hard not to fall in adult love’ with the menu including hash brown topped with ‘whorls’ of taramasalata’ and a vol-au-vent filled with lamb keema.

“Follow that with a golden block of their hash browns, the crisp, textured exterior giving way to a maternal softness, with a back note of dill. Use it as a vehicle for their creamy take on tarama,” he wrote.

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