To survive the pandemic, the restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns became “joined at the hip” to its partner the Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. But the nonprofit’s employees are increasingly uncomfortable with its support of the restaurant
Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for theAs the Instagram accounts that came under so much fire over the summer of 2020 — Barber’s, Blue Hill’s, and Stone Barns’ — filled up with photos of Black and brown chefs cooking their own food and demonstrating the same passion for ingredients that Barber had performed for so long, Barber and Blue Hill became one of the few restaurants to have a visible response in the wake of the George Floyd protests; former Blue Hill and Stone Barns staffers who were...
“That money wasn’t going to feeding community or providing education programs. It’s paying chefs’ salaries and buying ingredients for a program that is 99 percent white-tablecloth experience.” Part of staffers’ discomfort with the scale of the impact was the program’s substantial cost, and how it was paid for. Stone Barns’ budget for 2021 was $10 million; each four-month “season” of Chef in Residence cost roughly $2 million to produce.
“With the exception of a few donated meals once a week, the people who were actually impacted — truly impacted — are the diners.”
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