Every Night Is a Party at Dept of Culture Brooklyn

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Every Night Is a Party at Dept of Culture Brooklyn
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At Dept of Culture Brooklyn, a new Nigerian restaurant in Bed-Stuy, Ayo Balogun serves a four-course communal dinner inspired by the the cuisine of his native Kwara State.

The most conspicuous piece of furniture at Dept of Culture Brooklyn, a new Nigerian restaurant in Bed-Stuy, is the communal table. It’s built of solid oak and monopolizes the floor space. The small room is the site of a former barbershop; you can tell by the many outlets that still line its walls, which are now ornamented with photographs of the owner-chef Ayo Balogun’s relatives in Nigeria. The lighting is warm and dim.

The fish pepper soup, a staple of Nigerian beer parlors, is flavored with thyme, cilantro, and ata rodo, one of the hottest chilies anywhere. With each course, Balogun emerges from the kitchen and offers a bit of context on the food’s origin and significance. A recent evening commenced with a scorching fish pepper soup, a staple of beer parlors that’s meant to be enjoyed with lager or stout. The soup is flavored with thyme, cilantro, and, one of the hottest chilies anywhere; Balogun uses one or two peppers for an entire batch.

Balogun uses unpasteurized cow milk to prepare wara—spongy fried curds—which he serves warm and dressed in a red-pepper sauce called obe ata. The menu morphs based on what’s in stock at African markets around town. Balogun will cross state lines for certain ingredients. There are strict prohibitions around the selling of raw milk in New York, so he drives over to lawless Connecticut for the real stuff. “I feel like I’m buying drugs every time I go there,” he says.

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