Where should oil go in your skin-care routine? This is not a subject that is up for debate, and we have science on our side
Photo: Getty Images Facts, by definition, are immutable. That is, unless you’re talking about skin care online. Every time an influencer whispers, “I know a lot of you have been asking me about my beauty routine,” a dermatologist loses her wings.
Before we dive in, I should note that I use oil on my face every day. I have dry and dehydrated skin. Dry skin is when you don’t have enough oil on your face; dehydrated skin is when you don’t have enough water in your skin despite chugging water during waking hours. Oils thrive on the top layers of your skin; water thrives inside your skin — where it’s trapped by those oils. That’s what your moisture barrier is: an oil-infused barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss .
So you need water-based products for hydration … but water evaporates. Which is another reason oil should go last. Have you ever showered and noticed the tub’s dry an hour later? Go dump the equivalent of a shower’s worth of oil in your tub and try not to experience an adult slip-and-slide weeks later. Why would you put something that evaporates on top of something that won’t? The chemistry of oils isn’t my opinion. It’s not a vendetta against the oil community.
The most important reason oil goes last: It’ll eventually sink into your skin, reinforcing your moisture barrier no matter the order. That squalene you love because it mimics your natural oils and never breaks you out — it will still protect and nourish you even if it comes last. Think of water molecules as New Yorkers: volatile, in a hurry, and always about to ghost. Oil is a slow-walking tourist; it blocks things. It’s in the way of water and needs to stand clear of the closing doors.
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