'The fruit is so much better in other places. It’s also cheaper — or free. Fruit is just overpriced in New York. It’s kind of ridiculous.' Read chef Shenarri Freeman's GrubStreetDiet
Shenarri Freeman of Cadence. Illustration: Maanvi Kapur Last March, the chef Shenarri Freeman was in the midst of opening her first restaurant, Cadence, with Ravi DeRossi’s restaurant group, Overthrow Hospitality. From her perch in the East Village, she’s served veganized versions of the soul food she grew up on in Virginia, like southern-fried lasagna and smoked grits with fried oyster mushrooms.
When it comes to dumplings, I especially like gyoza because I’m not too crazy about super-fried food. I like gyoza because they’re partially fried, partially steamed a little bit. The menu is great, but when I go, because they don’t have that many vegan options, he always makes me things off the menu or things he’s trying out. I had some Brussels sprouts with chile-apple honey, pickled apples, sorrel, and cilantro; salted-potato Caesar salad with mushrooms, avocado, and pickles; and thyme biscuits.
I try to start the day with fruit, because I think that’s how I learned to eat over the years, especially this last seven or eight years. I love soursop. It’s a little harder to find in New York, so I usually do a mixture of berries, or pineapples. The fruit is so much better in other places. It’s also cheaper — or free. Fruit is just overpriced in New York. It’s kind of ridiculous.
I started eating Ethiopian food with my best friend in college; her mom would cook for us. She would make us spaghetti with turkey, which was really good but strange to me. I didn’t venture out at least into the vegan side of it until six or seven years ago. I learned that they had these veggie platters. I got a little addicted; I would be eating it every week. These veggie platters are just super-good, super-cheap, super-filling, and the flavor is just out of this world.
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