John Currence, a James Beard Award-winning chef with deep roots in New Orleans, opened the first Big Bad Breakfast in Oxford, Miss., in 2008. Since then it has spread to a dozen locations across Alabama, Florida, Arkansas and South Carolina.
It turns out the secret to catching midtown Mobile’s new Big Bad Breakfast with plenty of empty seats is to come early. Real early.
In Mobile, it has contributed to a surge of fresh energy at the once-sleepy intersection of Old Shell Road and Kenneth Street. The Shoppes of Midtown is a brand-new multi-use building standing next to the Dew Drop; in addition to Big Bad Breakfast, its first floor houses several other businesses including Nova Market, and over that are about two dozen loft apartments.
If you would like to go with something a little more conventional, or if you’re just oyster-phobic, there are plenty of options. Other items on the list of seasonal specialties include Shrimp & Grits, a huevos rancheros grit bowl and brandy-spiked French toast. It’s not all about the food, however. Catching Big Bad Breakfast in a relatively quiet moment provided a leisurely opportunity to watch the show from the metal-topped bar. It wasn’t quite as fascinating as observing the Swiss-watch mechanics of a well-tuned Waffle House, but it did reveal a few things.
The spaciousness carries over to the customer side: For example, the wide boulevard between the bar and the opposite row of booths means that you’re never going to feel people trying to squeeze past you while you’re sitting at the bar, and no one’s going to have to work their way through traffic to get to the restrooms. It all reflects a deliberate choice: The designers could have opted to shoehorn in quite a few more seats, if maximizing throughput was all they cared about.
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