“As we crisscrossed the country in search of the 50 best new restaurants of 2022, we were overwhelmed by how thrilling restaurant culture is at this moment.” — ElazarSontag
a cafe, sure, but as the restaurant’s Instagram bio points out: “We don’t have fucking breakfast sandwiches.” Instead, in a cottage-like corner building on a quiet street in Hudson, New York, chef-owner Shaina Loew-Banayan takes a deliberately trend-averse approach.
With just two seatings of 24 diners per night and an “open sometimes” set of hours, a seat at Amanda Shulman’s dinner party–style restaurant is hard to come by. Reservations open every other Sunday at 6 p.m., and sell out in minutes. But the meal is completely, unquestionably worth the trouble.
Regional Southern Indian dishes reign at New York’s Semma. Chef-partner Vijay Kumar pulls from the flavors of his childhood, plus his Michelin background, to turn out instant classics such as spicy-sweet Goanese oxtails, Mangalore cauliflower presented in a delicate crescent that belies a major punch of spice, and Keralan banana-leaf-wrapped fish. The West Village dining room is bright and noisy and perfectly matches Kumar’s expert use of heat and fragrant spices.
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