Eight Manresa alum discuss the fine-dining kitchen and the lessons they learned from the restaurant and its founder (via eatersf)
is an iconic restaurant by any standard. If you want to count up the awards, you can start with the three Michelin stars the restaurant has held since 2016, or the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Pacific that owner and chef David Kinch earned in 2010, or the countless other accolades showered on the restaurant and its chef by magazines and food media since the restaurant made its debut in 2002.
If you want to try to articulate how the restaurant and the vision of its founder have indelibly shaped the Northern California dining scene, you could point to the symbiotic relationship Kinch fostered with nearby Love Apple Farms and how it helped usher in a new era of seasonal, ingredient-driven California cuisine built on close bonds between farmers and chefs. Or how Manresa’s presence in the Silicon Valley helped put the area on the map as a fine dining destination in its own right.
But perhaps the real lasting legacy of the restaurant is best measured by the constellation of talented alumni who, after working at Manresa with Kinch, went on to open their own restaurants from San Francisco to Los Angeles. The roster includes James Syhabout of two-Michelin-starred Commis in Oakland, Josef Centeno of Tex-Mex stunner Bar Amá, and Jeremy Fox of Rustic Canyon and Birdie G’s.
JP Carmona remembers when he first became aware of an ambitious farm-to-table restaurant nestled among the foothills of California’s Santa Cruz Mountains. He’d read about Manresa inmagazine in 2004 and drove by Los Gatos on his way to Santa Cruz not long after. It wasn’t until two years later that he ended up in the kitchen as a cook. He’d eventually spend about six years at Manresa, climbing his way all the way to chef de cuisine.
When he first arrived, what struck Carmona about the food was its relative simplicity. “He would always quote Alain Passard from L’Arpège as saying, ‘Less is more,’” Carmona says. “I could tell that David [Kinch] was very focused on being ingredient-driven.” Because other fine dining restaurants of the era were more centered on technique-driven cooking, Kinch’s commitment to letting the ingredient drive the menu felt radical.
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