At Brooklyn’s Laser Wolf, the ‘Secret Ingredient’ Isn’t Edible

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At Brooklyn’s Laser Wolf, the ‘Secret Ingredient’ Isn’t Edible
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It's not food. But boy, can you taste it in everything

— executive chef Andrew Henshaw and his team often talk about the “secret ingredient” that makes their smokey brisket kebabs, creamy baba ganoush, and crispy whole branzino stand out.

Henshaw and his team use Marabu charcoal: once an invasive species of wood in Cuba, it’s now an integral part of their kitchen. The burning charcoal sits extremely close to kebabs, eggplants, whole fish, and other meats and vegetables, in order to keep the smoke and the heat insulated. Several times in the video, Henshaw acknowledges that cooking meat over fire is an extremely primitive process, and sometimes thought to be harder to do than, say, cooking over controllable temperatures or flame sizes on a modern-day grill. But the menu and the prep work is engineered very intentionally, he says, in order to achieve the flavors and textures of the food Israeli cooks have been creating for thousands of years, in a restaurant setting.

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