The Winterthur’s new exhibit 'Ann Lowe: An American Couturier,' is a groundbreaking fashion exhibit honoring the designer who made Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress.
A wedding dress for Ann Bellah Copeland, 1964, and the reproduction of the wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy.Roses were Ann Lowe’s signature flower. But their delicate petals don’t quite represent the largesse of the early 20th century Black couturier responsible for the picturesque gown Jacqueline Bouvier wore the day she married Sen. John F. Kennedy.
“Ann Lowe” features 40 couture confections — including a stunning replica of Kennedy’s wedding dress — and is the largest exhibition of her work.A descendant of enslaved dressmakers, Lowe grew up in Clayton, Ala. She was born in either 1889 or 1898 — the earlier date was entered into the record, perhaps, according to research by the late fashion historian Margaret Powell, to cover up Lowe’s first preteen marriage.
She had very few Black customers for fear of alienating white women who did not want their dressmaker to serve Black women. “Ann Lowe” does, however, feature prominent Southern African American heiress and pianist Elizabeth Mance’s wedding gown and two of her bridesmaids’ frocks.The exhibit preserves the grandiose garments Lowe painstakingly made. It is a testament to fashion conservation and the expertise it takes to mount historic garments.
“Instead of being a beautiful white, it was rust-colored where the rust streamed down on it,” Lowe told Douglas in the 1964 interview. “Nine of the bridesmaids dresses were ruined. At first, I screamed and cried and I didn’t know what to do. Then the only thing to do was to get to work.”just five hours before the wedding. She fitted the bride and her attendants, but she wasn’t allowed to attend the wedding.
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