Nature and culture combine in A, the spicy debut perfume by Ann Demeulemeester.
Photo: Victor Robyn Courtesy of Ann Demeulemeesteran asymmetric shirt from her memorable spring 1997 collection, she once told me, “gravity inspired me and I reinforced it.” No matter the medium, Demeulemeester has a habit of leaving traces of her spirit in her creations; now she’s done so with her debut fragrance, which she’s named A.
“As a child, I didn’t like fragrance at all, and later I didn’t like the perfumes from my mother or my grandmother; I thought they were too sweet and too powdery,” said Demeulemeester on a call. “I would prefer to go in the woods and smell the trees and the grasses and the flowers. Those were the smells that I was attracted to; this sweet girly thing was not really what I liked.”
“I had to find a way to explain this light and shadow, this strong and poetic side, which was always there, into a smell. I could only trust my instinct; and my instinct was the inspiration,” Demeulemeester explained. “To me it had to be something that was intriguing, something that goes back to the origin of things, to something natural, something animalistic, something mysterious.
Patrick Robyn’s “ornithographic”portrait of Ann Demeulemeester that nests on the inside of the top of the box.The release of A is the realization of a long held wish. “It’s a dream that I have had for a long time. For years and years, I was thinking that one day somebody would knock on my door and say, ‘Shall we make a perfume?’ So I wanted to be prepared. Let’s say that for 25 years, I’ve been thinking of what a perfume of mine would be like,” said Demeulemeester.
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