More and more wine enthusiasts are becoming interested in the ancient ways of making natural wine, which are usually made organically and fermented naturally without additives.
Wine made in ancient ways is gaining new fans. Natural wine — which emphasizes sustainability and minimal processing — is seeing growing interest in the U.S even though overall wine consumption has been declining since 2015, according to IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, a research firm. While natural and other sustainable wines made up less than 1% of sales in 2021, demand was rising faster than the wine category as a whole, according to alcohol delivery site Drizly.
The first time you taste it, you can tell it’s alive,' said John Keller, the owner and winemaker at Neu Cellars in Northern Michigan. But natural wine needs to overcome some hurdles that may be hampering its growth. Unlike organic wine — which must be government certified — natural wine has no set definition in the U.S. It’s not easy to find, since most natural wines don’t have the word 'natural' on their labels.
Many additives like yeast — which aids fermentation — are natural substances that are found in vineyards already, Oberholster said. And many conventional wines are made without additives. Some in the industry would like to see standards adopted for natural wine. That’s what happened in France, where the wine industry approved the 'vin method nature' label and certification process in 2020.
Still, winemakers don’t always welcome standards, which come with significant costs and rules. Keller uses organic grapes but says he can’t justify the cost of repeated inspections for an organic label. Cheryl Stanley, a senior lecturer of food and beverage management at Cornell University, said standardization would be a challenge since there are so many perceptions of what makes wine 'natural.
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