An interview with Alexander McQueen from The Graduate Issue, 2002:
No longer the brat of British fashion, Alexander McQueen is now a serious propostition: the figurehead of a global brand, a man with a plan. After all he says, doesn't everyone have to grow up sometime?
Of course, there was an idea. There was tailored tweed with chestnut leather strapping, dandy highway people, naughty schoolgirls and the sexiest sixth formers, leather flasher coats, the glimpse of lace and a sprinkling of avant-gimp gear and thigh-high leather boots, leather bodices and corsets. So here was fetishism turned on its head, made empowerment.
No longer a young designer or a young Turk or an enfant terrible or anything that might suggest brattishness, amateurishness or impermanence, McQueen is now the hands-on figurehead and chief architect of a 'global brand' - or on his way to being one anyway. The problem for McQueen during the Givenchy years was that the designer and the showman were forced apart and set to work on different projects. McQueen had little or no influence over Givenchy marketing or advertising. He was there simply to design the collection. And whilst it acknowledged that LVMH saw more in McQueen than a crowd pleaser, the separation of powers led to dysfunction and distortion.
And this is where Gucci is smart. McQueen is in a perfect position to build a brand that incorporates all the lessons of the last ten years and so can manage and capitalise on desire in smarter, sharper ways. At the moment McQueen is just so much credibility waiting to be cashed in but it has to be done slowly, slyly. It cannot be rushed and it cannot be over-cooked. It will be luxe and top end because that is the way the market is moving.
Lee McQueen has his office just round the corner on Amwell Street and so we sit outside Al's on the corner, near the benches where the dossers still sometimes gather and scrap and the police sometimes come. Ten years ago he was about to graduate from Central St Martins and his entire graduation show was about to be bought by Isabella Blow. And you know the rest. What excitement there was.
He seems a little that way, binge and purge, advance and retreat. His Yin and Yang always kicking at each other. He's an endearingly conflicted character. Whatever plaudits are thrown at him, he still imagines people boxing him off as an inarticulate oik."You have to tell the difference between the way that I talk and what I'm actually saying," he insists."None of my companies has ever gone bust, I employ 50 people, turnover is massive.
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