An Incredible Food City Is Hiding in the Rural West

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An Incredible Food City Is Hiding in the Rural West
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In a picturesque Montana town, one writer finds food that's worth the detour while en route to national parks.

to West Glacier, Montana, just shy of the Canadian border. We’d already plotted our return route via Yellowstone National Park and Colorado’s Million Dollar Highway before wending home along New Mexico’s old Route 66.

“Did we miss the exit?” I asked, as we pulled off 90 East onto 10 West amid rolling farmlands and zero evidence of a town, a trademark of historic rail settlements dotting the American West.Suddenly, diminutive Livingston materialized as a neat grid of low-slung brick structures framed by the Absaroka and Crazy mountain ranges.

Over glasses of fresh, citrusy Sicilian Catarratto white, we snacked on juicy cantaloupe canoes draped in prosciutto and drizzled with grassy olive oil. Fritto misto spilled from their butcher-paper cone; their crunchy cornmeal crusts encased toothsome squid, tender mussels, and springy shrimp, which we dunked in tangy preserved lemon aioli.

Livingston’s population of nearly 8,400 still includes a disproportionate number of artists and writers. Indeed, you’ll feel that spirit in the numerous galleries and studios that occupy downtown storefronts and when you wander the weekly farmers market, where artists rival the produce and meat farmers in number.

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