Alison Cook: Amrina in The Woodlands offers fun, captivating Indian take on Spanish tapas style
After an opening a la carte salvo of half-shell oysters topped with apple-and-nori granita, a voluptuous blob of sea urchin and a dab of Sriracha cream, I was starting to come around. Then a poufed disk of kulcha stuffed with crumbled Wagyu glossed with bone marrow butter seized my interest.
By now, I was so eager to see what might be next that I grabbed the horn and tooted it. I was no longer too proud for such themed street-noise shenanigans. We had ordered one vegetarian and one non-vegetarian tasting , and while the fish, chicken, beef and lamb elements were just fine, I found the veg versions sharper and lighter on their feet.
Then came deeply earthy mushrooms in fried semolina shells, little umami bombs served in the mouth of a stylized baby dragon. I had to admit it was a delightful bit of theater in the modernist Spanish style. We had steamed-to-order-by-Brian momos, the Nepalese dumplings, and the minced vegetable version was so graceful I could have eaten another round of them. The piece de resistance — tucked into hilarious dinosaur boats — was tacos of lamb or jackfruit. They were the only course that seemed unsuccessful, smothered by too much creamy sauce, although I admired the jackfruit initiative.
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