Barely 1,000km north of Antarctica and home to just two people, Caleta Eugenia in Chile is the southernmost point to which you can drive on the planet.
As I reached Caleta Eugenia, the gravel road disintegrated into a stony track that beat a sinuous route through a patch of grass strewn with aged trucks and abandoned farming equipment before petering out at a pebble beach curled like a comma along the shore of the Beagle Channel.
In a canny bid to boost tourism, the Chilean government upgraded Puerto Williams's status from a town in 2019, allowing it to snatch the title offrom its far-larger Argentine rival Ushuaia, which sits on the opposite side of the Beagle Channel. Despite its new billing, the capital of Chile's Antarctic province looks and feels like a small town – residents leave their doors unlocked and horses and cows roam the quiet streets.
Yet despite its remoteness, Puerto Williams is developing fast: a modern dock is being built to allow larger Antarctic cruise ships to call in and a major Along the way, Van de Maele stopped periodically to show me ancient sites I would otherwise have missed. There were scores of middens – large mounds of mollusc shells discarded by Indigenous Yagán families thousands of years earlier – and bowl-shaped depressions that once provided shelter from the region's harsh weather. Now overgrown with grass, they looked, to the untrained eye, like natural features of the landscape.
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