Once a pivotal part of brewing beer, the landmarks await their revival.
It was hops, not grapes, that put Sonoma County on the map. A century ago, the leggy bines grew in the millions. Their cones were dried for worldwide sale in oast houses or hop kilns, distinctive peaked barns with castle-like turrets that hulked like mammoths across the Russian River Valley.
My journey to find them begins with one that was erected not to dry the conical pods but to honor their former glory. The sky is moody when I visit Russian River Vineyards in Forestville. Its two weathered wooden towers stand in stark relief against the gloom as if straight from the pages of a fairytale.
estimated that there were at least 7,500 acres growing there and in neighboring counties, more than almost anywhere in the U.S. But as I drive into the estate, there are no towers in the distance. At the tasting room, they tell me I’ve arrived just a few months too late. The dilapidated historic building was structurally unsound, and Sonoma-Cutrerhad no choice but to tear it down a few months ago.
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