As an 'inhumane' luxury dish is banned, a rural county suffers
NEW YORK — The foie gras truffle torchon at the Beatrice Inn in Greenwich Village is a decadent indulgence: four discs of silky duck-liver mousse paired with triangles of buttery toast, all arranged on a silver platter. The appetizer goes for $28 — a gateway, perhaps, to the menu’s $375 porterhouse steak. The restaurant serves about 200 pounds of foie gras a week.
“These farms are connected to the feed mill, the towing and tractor companies, the local banks,” Metzger said. “They add $300,000 into the local school system in property taxes. As legislators, we have to think of all the consequences of the actions we take.” León feared for what might happen next if the farm closes down. “I don’t know where we’ll go,” she said. “We’re older, so for us it’s going to be difficult to find a job because they give priority to young people.”
Hudson Valley Foie Gras farm sells about $28 million of foie gras per year, and one-third of it ends up in New York City. The other farm, La Belle, sells about $10 million a year, and according to Sergio Saravia, one of the owners, La Belle also sends one-third of its foie gras to the city. Both farms said they could not survive a ban on foie gras in New York.
Carlina Rivera, the councilwoman from Manhattan who proposed the current ban, declined to be interviewed for this article, but in an earlier interview with The New York Times, she called the force-feeding “the most inhumane process” in the commercial food industry, done “for a purely luxury product.”
“Very quickly it was apparent that there was more interest in the impact on the people than there was in the physiology of the ducks,” Henley said. “But in the end, it didn’t matter anyway.”
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