Celebrate the Korean harvest festival with chef Ji Hye Kim’s spin on the beloved zucchini fritters
Jeon 전 is a catch-all phrase in Korean cuisine for savory pan-fried stuff, whether it’s pancakes or egg-battered vegetables. Until recently, oil was precious and deep frying wasn’t much of a thing , so jeon was a special treat. To this day, it always shows up in birthdays, holidays, and celebrations.
My mother made jeon occasionally as a part of the array of banchan she served at every meal. Sometimes she would make kimchi jeon or seafood scallion pancakes for an afternoon snack. But for holidays like Chuseok 추석 , jeon was an all-day production by a team of women — my mother and aunties — making at least five to seven types of jeon, enough to feed the whole extended family. can be traced to at least the 19th century, when it was mentioned in시의전서, a cookbook compiled later that century.
This recipe, however, does differ a little bit. Most often, the zucchini used in hobakjeon is lightly salted and allowed to drain before it’s dusted, battered, and fried. That prevents the finished hobakjeon from getting waterlogged, which is great when you’re making a huge batch for extended family. But in this recipe, hobakjeon is meant to be eaten right away, even right off the pan, just like I did as a child thief during Chuseok.
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