A Grand Tour of Germany’s Opera Paradise

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A Grand Tour of Germany’s Opera Paradise
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In Germany, the performing arts are widely considered a form of “Lebensmittel”—basic nourishment. Tickets are cheap, and, in many places, people with limited resources can get into opera performances for free.

Germany is, on statistical grounds, the most operatic country on earth. The Bundesrepublik has more than eighty permanent opera houses, which in a typical season present seven or eight thousand performances—about a third of the global total, according to the Web site Operabase. By contrast, Italy, the birthplace of the art, manages fewer than two thousand. As opportunities elsewhere dwindle, the German system has become a crucial mechanism by which opera careers are made.

The old industrial city of Chemnitz bore the name Karl-Marx-Stadt during the East German period. A gigantic bust of Marx remains the city’s chief landmark; dour Warsaw Pact architecture still predominates. Leftist Chemnitz takes pride in its Communist heritage, although the far right has an ominous presence, as violent anti-immigrant demonstrations in 2018 made plain.

Erfurt’s operatic topography is, in a way, the reverse of Chemnitz’s. Where the Chemnitz theatre is a relic of a largely destroyed prewar cityscape, Theater Erfurt resides in a sleek modern structure surrounded by an unusually well-preserved medieval city. From the upper lobby, you can see the spires of Erfurt’s immense Gothic cathedral, glowing at sunset. In this case, newer is better.

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