French sportswear firm Salomon decided to start making sneakers in its home country. Building the supply chain hasn’t been easy in a country where shoemaking died out long ago.
The robotic sole-bonding process.Adidas AG opened an automated plant in Germany in 2016, and another in Atlanta, Ga., the following year, but by 2020 it had shut both down. The company reverted to its previous model of chiefly making shoes in Asia and South America to be closer to suppliers, and has no plans to try to move production to North America or Europe again, a spokesman said.
In France, Salomon has less to work with. Salomon’s redesigned shoe has 26 parts, down from over 70 in its other models. The sole is a sandwich of five separate layers of rubbery material. The upper shoe comprises 14 parts, including colorful plastic trims and a horseshoe-shaped mesh that forms the sneaker’s body. The tongue is a structure of six layered parts. Shoelaces are the final component.
Laces and some other parts can be sourced relatively easily, he said, but others aren’t readily available in Europe. These include soles—a multilayered cushion that is deceptively tricky to make because it must retain its form and springiness through years of use—as well as the specialized plastic sections in the upper shoe. Vietnam is the best source for many of these parts today, according to Mr. Meyzenq.
If the French project is successful, Salomon wants to build a similar automated plant in the U.S. to meet demand there. The aim is for the new plants to meet around a quarter of local demand in the U.S. and Europe, Mr. Meyzenq said.
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