At London Fashion Week, history buff Erdem celebrated the queen’s dedication to service.
Erdem’s romantic heroines often look as though they’ve stepped out of the pages of an 19th-century novel in their pretty Toile de Jouy florals and puff-sleeved empire waist gowns. It’s a singular look the London-based designer has crafted over the better part of two decades by immersing himself in art exhibits and fashion archives, including the world’s largest fashion collection at the British decorative arts and design museum the V&A.
. But as the mononymous creative sees it, that doesn’t mean he’s stuck in the past. Rather, it’s only by looking back that we can hope to make sense of the present.Erdem’s Spring 2023 collection, shown today in London amongst the Greek Revival columns of the British Museum, of course comes at a momentous time in British history.
The life and times of the queen have often been a point of reference for Erdem; his Resort 2023 collection took cues from her longtime florist Constance Spry’s arrangements for her coronation in 1953. “It’s a hugely sad time in London—her Majesty the Queen was an inspiration and I admire her sense of duty and service enormously,” says Erdem. “The best way for the industry to support British designers is to attend the shows, shoot the collections, and buy the collections.
More broadly, Erdem was inspired this season by the process of art restoration, in particular witnessing an 18th-century embroidered dress being revived with a complex tulle under structure and a damaged 15th-century oil painting brought back to life based on a 17th-century etching. “My studio team and I spent a lot of time behind the scenes with the conservators and restoration teams at the British Museum, National Gallery, Tate Britain and the V&A,” he recalls.
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