From sombre minute-long silences in honour of Queen Elizabeth II to a parade of all things Barbie, London Fashion Week proved that not even the most unprecedented of times can rain on its parade.
’s first fully in-person fashion week since the hiatus the pandemic forced it into was designed to reassert the capital’s place on the international fashion stage. Big names, Burberry and Raf Simons, affirmed their affiliation with the capital by agreeing to return to the schedule, as other household names revved themselves up to unveil their spring/summer 2023 collections.Queen Elizabeth II
The result was a fashion week that felt ever-so-slightly flat, despite the best efforts of labels to transport guests and attendees to a time filled with all of the frivolity that fashion is famed for. Music choices felt more considered, and the collections, despite being designed months before the Opening the official London Fashion Week proceedings was Next In Fashion runner-up Daniel w. Fletcher, whose show began with a minute-long silence in honour of the Queen and a first look of an all-black morning suit rendered in British wool. Fletcher was just one of many brands to mark the passing of the monarch. Bora Aksu’s show similarly began with a minute-long silence, while attendees’ seats were adorned with single black bow badges as a subtle nod to the National Period of Mourning.
Riffing on our collective dependence on digital devices, Northern Irish designer JW Anderson hosted his spring/summer 2023 show next door to his flagship store – at the Las Vegas arcade, a late-night Soho institution. As attendees took their seats around the periphery of the game-packed room, models sauntered through in ensembles that were intended to challenge our increasingly virtual existences.
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