Modern watchmakers including De Bethune and Urwerk are looking skyward for inspiration—and producing stunning results.
Image Credit: Courtesy of De Bethune’s watches are already rare, with only around 300 being made a year. But just a handful of collectors will be able to lay claim to this latest inspiration from the heavens, as production of the DB25 is limited to five per annum. What makes this piece even more exclusive is its Muonionalusta-meteorite dial in a crosshatched Widmanstätten pattern.
Other brands have used meteorite—Rolex, most recently, in its Daytona model from 2021—but what sets this one apart is De Bethune’s treatment: The material undergoes a thermal-oxidation process that creates fluctuations in the bluish hue, a blending of colors that suggests solar systems in a galaxy. Dotted across the surface, a series of white-gold pins of varying diameters creates a constellation of stars.
Although F. P. Journe was technically the first watchmaker to execute this function in a wristwatch, Halter has put his own spin on the complication. His version, a pared-down take on the idea presented in his domed Deep Space Resonance prototype from 2021, offers a classic round case with a sapphire glass that shows off the watch’s ultra-complex architecture, with no dial covering the fireworks beneath.
Practicality aside, it also provides even more dynamic horological action beneath the sapphire-crystal glass. The splitting and rotating satellites, accented with neon-yellow SuperLuminova markers, appear to give the Star Trek Vulcan salute every hour, which is how the UR-120 earned its nickname: the Spock.
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